Wow …. as a matter of fact, it never really crossed my mind to think about this particular topic. I always considered the Golden Gate Bridge to be beautiful, just never really considered that this state would have a collection of them. When I was researching a trip we are about to make, I ran across a suspension bridge in Waco built in the 1800s. That got me to thinking …. I wonder if there are others.
As it turns out, there most certainly are. As of this moment, we have located at least five and possibly a sixth that we will be exploring. The Towns of Waco, Sherman, Victoria, and Bluff Dale each have a suspension bridge in the area still standing in varying degrees of repair / disrepair. There is possibly another still standing in the area near Gordon. In just a couple of weeks we will make every attempt to visit all 6 locations.
This morning, I went to Sherman. There is a suspension bridge a couple hundred yards north of US Highway 82 approximately 7 miles east of Sherman at Choctaw Creek. The grass is still green and assuredly, there may be bad insects and possibly even snakes in the area …. later in the year, I’ll go back and get a closer look …. when the risks of snakebite and tickbite subside …. I tend to steer clear of tall grass and overgrowth in the spring, summer, fall. From what I could see, today, I am definitely intrigued.
Here is a photo I took, today of the “Choctaw Creek Bridge” between Sherman and Bells, Texas on US Highway 82:
Early 1900s Texas, yeah, that’s what it feels like. Except for modern homes, cars, technology …. Montague County still has a lot of the past to see …. a lot more than we actually expected, and it is everywhere. We visited the towns of Saint Jo, Illinois Bend, Spanish Fort, Nocona (YES! Where Nocona Boots used to come from!!), Ringgold, Bowie and Montague. Some of these towns had been devestated by wildfires, others were beautiful examples of early Texas Architecture. Each had its own personality and feeling. Out of respect, we did not photograph wildfire damage. Those are memories best left in the past …. The two themes in this area are The Chisolm Trail that actually came through, here, and crossed the Red River in the north end of the county and the Butterfield Overland Stage Coach that came through the county between the Stops of Gainesville and Bridgeport.
We came into Montague County via US Highway 82 from Muenster, in Cooke County. (By the way, Muenster has German-Fest coming up, in April, so we will be there, then). 1st town We stopped in was Saint Jo. The town of Saint Jo has a wonderful and spacious town square. Their town square is undergoing some much needed maintenance, but, it is not all closed up. Just like so many other Texas towns we have been to, the central areas of town are being revitalized and are being used. It was early and cold on this particular morning, but, there was life on the streets.
Being at the north end of the Chisolm Trail and knowing there were cowboys pushing cattle across the red river that would likely spend some time in town … the first permanent building built in this town in 1873 was a saloon. The Saloon is presently a museum open on Saturday and Sunday. There are also some Static interior displays in a couple buildings on the square. We went up on a Tuesday, so, it was not open for us. We’ll try to get by there, when we go to Muenster for German Fest.
On the Northbound Lane of FM677, just south of town center, there is a bridge made of stone with three arches over the Elm Fork of the Trinity River. At the time it was built, it was clearly the only bridge. A newer southbound bridge was added at a later date, clearly two cars cannot pass each other on this bridge.
One more Shot of Saint Jo. Town Square with covered water well and community Gazebo. I imagine it is quite lovely to be out there on summer nights with a couple guitar players and a singer ….
Illinois Bend:
Heading Straight North out of Saint Jo on Farm Road 677, after a while you will come to the community of Illinois Bend. It’s called a ghost town, but, clearly there are people living in the area …. We saw some folks around as well as signs of daily lives and community.
Spanish Fort:
Continuing north on FM-677 will lead you to a town called spanish fort. Rumor has it that the early settlers mistook Indian sites as Spanish sites …. deriving the name “Spanish Fort”. The only thing of note is the old Spanish Fort High School building, built in 1924.
Nocona:
Nocona is a fantastic little town in Montague County. Very nice, albeit somewhat decrepit in places, downtown area. They do have a really nice museum across the street from the old Nocona Boot factory called the “Tales and Trails Museum”. We highly recommend folks stop there and get educated on the history of Montague County as well as Nocona, Texas. The Horton Classic Car Museum is also an absolute “Must See”!! The old Nocona Boot factory is closed, but, is still there as of the day of our visit, unoccupied. Nocona was once on an MKT railroad line …. there is an old Rail Station in town, currently used as office space. Looks like an old MKT boxcar has been attached to it, not sure if the station we saw is the old MKT station, or not. There are a lot of historic markers and historic homes in town also. The Museum has put together a list. Stop into the Tales and TRails and make sure you get the list of historic sites in Nocona. Enjoy this little golden nugget of an old Texas town!
From Nocona to Ringgold we chose to use the dirt roads (Ranch Roads) that run up along the REd River. The Nothingness is not for the faint of heart. We spent an hour or so not seeing another human being, no structures, no cell phone service …. just dirt roads, cattle us, and the occasional strung up coyote.
Ringgold:
Ringgold was very …. well, upsetting. The wildfire damage is still very visible. We did run across something pretty cool …. a bridge built with depression highway funds, likely. At the intersection of US 82 and US 81 go north on US 81 and turn right on the dirt road …. the bridge is just down that dirt road a little ways …..
In retrospect, which is always the case …. I wish we had really looked closer at this bridge and maybe taken a few more shots ….
Bowie:
Bowie …. This town is on my list to explore, more. The wife and daughter were getting really tired by the time we arrived in Bowie. They were wanting to get done already. LOL!! There is definitely a building in Bowie that throws a person right into the old west …. Heard’s Hardware – Furniture & Appliances. Downtown Bowie is nice, and old. I really wish we had spent a little more time, there. They put on “Jim Bowie Days”, so, we will be back!!
Montague:
Montague, Texas is the County Seat of Montague County. The downtown area has definitely seen better days. There are a few businesses downtown, and a couple of old, old Gas Stations. The Montague County Courthouse is the centerpiece, and it is a beautiful as well as imposing relic. Architecturally it is mainly a Greek Revival structure. There is a set of windmills as you enter town from the south. We aren’t sure what they are there for, a collection?, a display?, just a novelty we didn’t ecpect to see. Made the trip to Montague even better.
More Information:
Everywhere you look in Montague County, there are vestiges of the Old west. This Texas county deserves some attention from sightseeing folks. There is so much to see!! From anywhere in DFW Metroplex, this is but a day trip. Get out there and Explore!
We woke up one saturday morning thinking we needed to do something. We knew there was a state park out there, but, really didn’t know any more than that. So we loaded up a few rations and headed out toward Jacksboro, just to look around.
Jacksboro:
Heading into town on US 82 Westbound, the first thing that jumps out at you is a massive shell of a Drive-In screen and bones of the snack bar / ticket booth. The Mesquite Drive-In Theater parking area is now used for grazing cattle.
In Jacksboro, the town square is small, but, nice. Beautifully crafted courthouse for Jack county is the centerpiece. A few shops and cafes surround it. We were there on a Saturday, early, so most was closed, but, the downtown area looks clean and mostly in use during the week. Several really old buildings face the courthouse, a couple are architecturally stunning. Several Buildings on the square are crafted from limestone, which seems to have been extensively used in the town.
Another Example of Limestone Use on the Square:
County Courthouse:
Some of the detail work is amazing. There is even an old apparent spittoon at the front door being used as an ashtray ….
After researching, post-visit, we did discover we missed a few things. We hope to return to Jacksboro, during the week, at some point in the not too distant future.
Fort Richardson:
The highlight of this trip was absolutely Fort Richardson State Park. Several buildings have been restored and have period accurate displays. We started in the interpretive center. The displays in this building are mostly about area history. Starting with Native Americans through the early part of the 20th Century. Several artifacts are on display including Republic of Texas bank notes, declaration of independence (a copy), statehood, railroad memorabilia, arrowheads and the like. This interpretive center is located in what was, originally, officers quarters.
We moved on to the largest building on the site. The hospital. Amazing amounts of period hospital furnishings and equipment.
Other structures: Morgue, Bakery, Guard House, Comissary, Commander’s house (beautifully period furnished), Barracks (complete with beds, lockers)
Fort Richardson was a cavalry fort in the mid to late 1800s. It was deactivated around the turn of the 20th century. It was reactivated just prior to World War II. The most notable piece of history pertaining to modern times is “the lost batallion” that participated in building the death railroad (Burma-Siam Railway) as well as the Bridge Over the River Kwai, for the Japanese, were from this fort.
Also on the Grounds of The park (or just outside the actual boundary) are relics of transportation. An old Railroad Trestle Iron through truss, relocated from somewhere and a railroad depot. The railroad depot, legend has it, is the original Jacksboro depot and was constructed in an attempt to entice the railroad to come. The railroad did come and connect Jacksboro to Fort Worth. Another depot was built years later in a different location, it has been restored and today houses the Chamber of Commerce offices.
No trip to Fort Richardson State Park is complete unless one hikes a couple trails and soaks in a good dose of nature.
Plan a day, and get out there!! It is well worth seeing!!
We explored the ares of the panhandle north and east. North of Route 66 and east of Amarillo.
Starting with the map …. Zoom in on Amarillo and find US 60. Going up 60 we stopped in Panhandle, White Deer, Pampa. After Pampa on 60 we took TX 152 into Mobeetie and on into Wheeler. In Wheeler we took US 83 North into Canadian then on to Lipscomb by taking US 60 out of Canadian then TX 305 North. From Lipscomb to Perryton it got really cool …. FM 1920 out of Lipscombe changes into FM 3260 North a few blocks on TX 23 then County Road V changes into County Road U stay on county road U past Huge Boulders and Outcroppings, Unbelievably beautiful scenery and NO cars whatsoever … stop and photograph Wild Turkeys, a lake …. WOW then US 83 North into Perryton. Then Leaving Perryton on TX 15 into Spearman … Leaving Spearman on TX 207 in Stinnett and on to Borger. Whew … Finally Back to Amarillo … and Rest.
Panhandle Texas was a Major Surprise. You expect to see a courthouse, maybe a railroad station …. they have a full blown museum!! Donations Accepted!! So many things to see!! A Must See if you are ever in the Texas panhandle, spread out across 2 buildings and a huge block of ground is a fantastic museum about life in the panhandle. Rail Cars, horse drawn paddy wagon, dispatcher’s office, pioneer dugout home, lots of artifacts. More than possible to list.
Beautiful Rail Station for the Santa Fe Railroad … Currently City Hall
The surprise museum is in the town square directly across from the county courthouse. Shown is the smallest building. There are several static structures and 2 larger brick buildings on the grounds. Worth the time to stop, definitely.
Carson County Courthouse has a beautiful Carved Mosaic Right above the front door.
Well, this just about sums up White Deer, Texas. Main Street is closed and the white deer guards empty brick streets. The historical marker points out that the town got it’s name from a nearby creek which, according to indian legend, had white deer feeding there.
Pampa Texas has an old Downtown area with several very interesting buildings. Also Gray County Courthouse is in the town of Pampa.
Mobeetie Texas was another nice little surprise. Mobeetie (the town) is on the north side of TX 152. Historic old Mobeetie is on the south side of TX 152. We went to the town, first and almost went on our way …. then we went south. Mobeetie was once the county seat of wheeler county. The first county jail in the panhandle is there …. along with several other structures … an old one room schoolhouse, an old barber shop, an old doctor’s office, each with artifacts! US Cavalry Fort Elliot once occupied space near Mobeetie and several artifacts from there are housed at the museum including the old original flagpole. There is a larger old school building on the grounds that houses artifacts from several school districts in the area including yearbooks, photos, jackets, furniture, and other small school artifacts. All of the structures were open for touring the day we were there!
Wheeler, Texas. The most impressive veterans memorial view was in this town. The view of the memorial with the massive county courthouse and the cannon off to one side was definitely striking.
Canadian, Texas …. The county Seat of Hemphill County. Hands Down the most beautiful veterans memorial in the entire panhandle. The Courthouse was being restored while we were there, so it was covered with scaffolding. You can easily see what glory awaits when the scaffolding comes down. Canadian actually has a very old movie theater still in operation and a wagon bridge built at the turn of the 20th century that is in good enough shape for pedestrians to use …. we did. We walked almost the entire length of the bridge. It was awesome!!
Imagine driving into Canadian, Texas from Oklahoma within this structure …. this bridge carried automobiles and trucks into the 1960s!!
Lipscomb Taxas …. Well they had some old boarded up old west buildings and the county courthouse. Not much else.
But, the Drive between Lipscomb and Perryton made the disapponintment of little to see in Lipscomb worth while. What a beautiful drive!! Highly recommend Ochiltree County Road U (Except that you may not see another car or human for quite a while … not for the faint of heart).
Perryton Texas is a neat little town. The old Ellis Theater is still in operation. There’s another beautiful Art Deco Building almost directly across the street from the theater. The old Ochiltree County Courthouse has cows instead of gargoyles … how fitting is that?
Spearman Texas had another little nice surprise. First of all, spread out throughout the town are windmills. Each with a number like you’d check it off a list or something. Turns out, JB Buchanan Windmill Park has a whole bunch of windmills that actually operate in one spot and the mills you see in the town are actually part of the park’s collection. We spent several minutes roaming around the park, just looking. Spearman is the county seat of Hansford County Texas.
Stinnett Texas …. another neat little town, not much to see. Beautiful County Courthouse and Isaac McCormick Cottage built in 1899. That’s about it.
Borger Texas … It was getting dark when we rolled into Borger. We looked at a couple of old theater buildings and left to get back to the hotel room. It had been a very long day. Nice, but, long.
Our panhandle Journey Starts at an Old Route 66 Town called Shamrock. I grew up as a military brat and I have vivid memories of trips we made on old US Highways. Route 66 is particularly neat, because of the restoration and upkeep that has taken place over the years. I personally never traveled on Route 66, but, many of the old structures I remember from my childhood on the road.
Feel free too zoom in on the map to Shamrock, Texas at the intersection of US83 and I40 to follow along.
From Shamrock we went into Oklahoma using I40, then we took the Business 40 exit just across the Oklahoma Border into Texola, on to Erick, on to Sayre, then we drove to Amarillo (the epicenter of the panhandle) using I40 to spend the night. Between Erick and Sayre, there are still patches of the old highway in a few places ….. The pictures for this leg of the journey are below along with some explation.
The Art Deco Conoco – This larger than life remnant of the earlier half of the 20th Century is a must see for anyone traveling on I40 through Texas. Get out your camera and explore!!
This Fully Restored Magnolia Station sits in Downtown Shamrock …. Really a nice place to see!!
Wasn’t much at all in Texola …. Just this old Gas Station and a few old signs.
Erick was a little better than Texola …. kind of like going back in time. The hotel signs and buildings are clearly dilapidated, but, definitely worth a look.
Sayre OK …. I wish I had taken a few more photos, but, we were not really impressed with Oklahoma’s upkeep of Route 66. I only took a series of photos of the old Stovall Theater on Main Street. They seem to be trying to revive Main Street … let’s hope that happens!!
Without any Doubt the highlight of the trip into Oklahoma was finding an original ribbon of the old Route 66 between Sayre and Erick. There is absolutely no way 2 modern cars could drive on this ….
This wraps Up Day 1 of our northern Panhandle trip. From here, we went to Amarillo to check in and get some rest ….
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