Montague County – Saint Jo, Bowie, Nocona, Montague

Early 1900s Texas, yeah, that’s what it feels like. Except for modern homes, cars, technology …. Montague County still has a lot of the past to see …. a lot more than we actually expected, and it is everywhere. We visited the towns of Saint Jo, Illinois Bend, Spanish Fort, Nocona (YES! Where Nocona Boots used to come from!!), Ringgold, Bowie and Montague. Some of these towns had been devestated by wildfires, others were beautiful examples of early Texas Architecture. Each had its own personality and feeling. Out of respect, we did not photograph wildfire damage. Those are memories best left in the past …. The two themes in this area are The Chisolm Trail that actually came through, here, and crossed the Red River in the north end of the county and the Butterfield Overland Stage Coach that came through the county between the Stops of Gainesville and Bridgeport.


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Saint Jo:

We came into Montague County via US Highway 82 from Muenster, in Cooke County. (By the way, Muenster has German-Fest coming up, in April, so we will be there, then). 1st town We stopped in was Saint Jo. The town of Saint Jo has a wonderful and spacious town square. Their town square is undergoing some much needed maintenance, but, it is not all closed up. Just like so many other Texas towns we have been to, the central areas of town are being revitalized and are being used. It was early and cold on this particular morning, but, there was life on the streets.

Being at the north end of the Chisolm Trail and knowing there were cowboys pushing cattle across the red river that would likely spend some time in town … the first permanent building built in this town in 1873 was a saloon. The Saloon is presently a museum open on Saturday and Sunday. There are also some Static interior displays in a couple buildings on the square. We went up on a Tuesday, so, it was not open for us. We’ll try to get by there, when we go to Muenster for German Fest.

Montague County - Stonewall Saloon, St Jo, Texas
Stonewall Saloon, St Jo, Texas

On the Northbound Lane of FM677, just south of town center, there is a bridge made of stone with three arches over the Elm Fork of the Trinity River. At the time it was built, it was clearly the only bridge. A newer southbound bridge was added at a later date, clearly two cars cannot pass each other on this bridge.

Montague County - Stone Arch Bridge 1939, St Jo, Texas
Stone Arch Bridge 1939, St Jo, Texas

One more Shot of Saint Jo. Town Square with covered water well and community Gazebo. I imagine it is quite lovely to be out there on summer nights with a couple guitar players and a singer ….

Montague County - Saint Jo Town Square, Texas
Saint Jo Town Square, Texas

Illinois Bend:

Heading Straight North out of Saint Jo on Farm Road 677, after a while you will come to the community of Illinois Bend. It’s called a ghost town, but, clearly there are people living in the area …. We saw some folks around as well as signs of daily lives and community.

Montague County - Illinois Bend Texas - Gas Station, General Store, Home??  Appears Abandoned.
Illinois Bend Texas – Gas Station, General Store, Home?? Appears Abandoned.

Illinois Bend, Texas Schoolhouse
Illinois Bend, Texas Schoolhouse

Spanish Fort:

Continuing north on FM-677 will lead you to a town called spanish fort. Rumor has it that the early settlers mistook Indian sites as Spanish sites …. deriving the name “Spanish Fort”. The only thing of note is the old Spanish Fort High School building, built in 1924.

Spanish Fort High School 1924
Spanish Fort High School 1924

Nocona:

Nocona is a fantastic little town in Montague County. Very nice, albeit somewhat decrepit in places, downtown area. They do have a really nice museum across the street from the old Nocona Boot factory called the “Tales and Trails Museum”. We highly recommend folks stop there and get educated on the history of Montague County as well as Nocona, Texas. The Horton Classic Car Museum is also an absolute “Must See”!! The old Nocona Boot factory is closed, but, is still there as of the day of our visit, unoccupied. Nocona was once on an MKT railroad line …. there is an old Rail Station in town, currently used as office space. Looks like an old MKT boxcar has been attached to it, not sure if the station we saw is the old MKT station, or not. There are a lot of historic markers and historic homes in town also. The Museum has put together a list. Stop into the Tales and TRails and make sure you get the list of historic sites in Nocona. Enjoy this little golden nugget of an old Texas town!

Nocona Boot Company, Inc.  Nocona, Texas
Nocona Boot Company, Inc. Nocona, Texas

Horton Classic Car Museum  Nocona Texas
Horton Classic Car Museum Nocona Texas

From Nocona to Ringgold we chose to use the dirt roads (Ranch Roads) that run up along the REd River. The Nothingness is not for the faint of heart. We spent an hour or so not seeing another human being, no structures, no cell phone service …. just dirt roads, cattle us, and the occasional strung up coyote.

Ringgold:

Ringgold was very …. well, upsetting. The wildfire damage is still very visible. We did run across something pretty cool …. a bridge built with depression highway funds, likely. At the intersection of US 82 and US 81 go north on US 81 and turn right on the dirt road …. the bridge is just down that dirt road a little ways …..

Dirt Ranch Roads between Nocona and Ringgold
Dirt Ranch Roads between Nocona and Ringgold

Texas State Highway Department 1935  Contractor LJ Miles
Texas State Highway Department 1935 Contractor LJ Miles

In retrospect, which is always the case …. I wish we had really looked closer at this bridge and maybe taken a few more shots ….

Bowie:

Bowie …. This town is on my list to explore, more. The wife and daughter were getting really tired by the time we arrived in Bowie. They were wanting to get done already. LOL!! There is definitely a building in Bowie that throws a person right into the old west …. Heard’s Hardware – Furniture & Appliances. Downtown Bowie is nice, and old. I really wish we had spent a little more time, there. They put on “Jim Bowie Days”, so, we will be back!!

Heard's Hardware - Furniture & Appliances  Bowie, Texas
Heard’s Hardware – Furniture & Appliances Bowie, Texas

Montague:

Montague, Texas is the County Seat of Montague County. The downtown area has definitely seen better days. There are a few businesses downtown, and a couple of old, old Gas Stations. The Montague County Courthouse is the centerpiece, and it is a beautiful as well as imposing relic. Architecturally it is mainly a Greek Revival structure. There is a set of windmills as you enter town from the south. We aren’t sure what they are there for, a collection?, a display?, just a novelty we didn’t ecpect to see. Made the trip to Montague even better.

Montague County Courthouse, Montague, Texas
Montague County Courthouse, Montague, Texas

Windmill Collection  Montague, Texas
Windmill Collection Montague, Texas

More Information:

Everywhere you look in Montague County, there are vestiges of the Old west. This Texas county deserves some attention from sightseeing folks. There is so much to see!! From anywhere in DFW Metroplex, this is but a day trip. Get out there and Explore!

Montague County, Texas

Stonewall Saloon Museum in St. Jo

Texas Kings Hotel in St. Jo

Nocona, Texas

Veranda Inn Nocona, Texas

Tales and Trails Museum Nocona, Texas

Bowie, Texas

Jim Bowie Days Rodeo

Montague, Texas

Day Trip – Jacksboro, Fort Richardson State Park, Texas

We woke up one saturday morning thinking we needed to do something. We knew there was a state park out there, but, really didn’t know any more than that. So we loaded up a few rations and headed out toward Jacksboro, just to look around.

Jacksboro:

Heading into town on US 82 Westbound, the first thing that jumps out at you is a massive shell of a Drive-In screen and bones of the snack bar / ticket booth. The Mesquite Drive-In Theater parking area is now used for grazing cattle.

Mesquite Drive-In Theater Screen Structure
Mesquite Drive-In Theater Screen Structure

Mesquite Drive-In Theater Ticket Booth/Entrance
Mesquite Drive-In Theater Ticket Booth/Entrance

Mesquite Theater Drive-In Theater Snack Bar/Projection
Mesquite Theater Drive-In Theater Snack Bar/Projection

In Jacksboro, the town square is small, but, nice. Beautifully crafted courthouse for Jack county is the centerpiece. A few shops and cafes surround it. We were there on a Saturday, early, so most was closed, but, the downtown area looks clean and mostly in use during the week. Several really old buildings face the courthouse, a couple are architecturally stunning. Several Buildings on the square are crafted from limestone, which seems to have been extensively used in the town.

Fort Richardson Hotel - On the Square
Fort Richardson Hotel – On the Square

Eastburn Building 1898
Eastburn Building 1898

Another Example of Limestone Use on the Square:

Buildings / Park on the Square
Buildings / Park on the Square

County Courthouse:

Jack County Courthouse - Jacksboro, TX
Jack County Courthouse – Jacksboro, TX

Some of the detail work is amazing. There is even an old apparent spittoon at the front door being used as an ashtray ….

Jack County Courthouse Front Door Detail
Jack County Courthouse Front Door Detail

After researching, post-visit, we did discover we missed a few things. We hope to return to Jacksboro, during the week, at some point in the not too distant future.

Fort Richardson:

The highlight of this trip was absolutely Fort Richardson State Park. Several buildings have been restored and have period accurate displays. We started in the interpretive center. The displays in this building are mostly about area history. Starting with Native Americans through the early part of the 20th Century. Several artifacts are on display including Republic of Texas bank notes, declaration of independence (a copy), statehood, railroad memorabilia, arrowheads and the like. This interpretive center is located in what was, originally, officers quarters.

Fort Richardson - Officers Quarters / Interpretive Center
Fort Richardson – Officers Quarters / Interpretive Center

We moved on to the largest building on the site. The hospital. Amazing amounts of period hospital furnishings and equipment.

Fort Richardson - Hospital
Fort Richardson – Hospital

Other structures: Morgue, Bakery, Guard House, Comissary, Commander’s house (beautifully period furnished), Barracks (complete with beds, lockers)

Fort Richardson was a cavalry fort in the mid to late 1800s. It was deactivated around the turn of the 20th century. It was reactivated just prior to World War II. The most notable piece of history pertaining to modern times is “the lost batallion” that participated in building the death railroad (Burma-Siam Railway) as well as the Bridge Over the River Kwai, for the Japanese, were from this fort.

Lost Batallion - 131st Field Artillery
Lost Batallion – 131st Field Artillery

Also on the Grounds of The park (or just outside the actual boundary) are relics of transportation. An old Railroad Trestle Iron through truss, relocated from somewhere and a railroad depot. The railroad depot, legend has it, is the original Jacksboro depot and was constructed in an attempt to entice the railroad to come. The railroad did come and connect Jacksboro to Fort Worth. Another depot was built years later in a different location, it has been restored and today houses the Chamber of Commerce offices.

Railroad Trestle
Railroad Trestle

Jacksboro Old Railroad Depot
Jacksboro Old Railroad Depot

No trip to Fort Richardson State Park is complete unless one hikes a couple trails and soaks in a good dose of nature.

Plan a day, and get out there!! It is well worth seeing!!

Further Information:

Jacksboro Chamber of Commerce

Fort Richardson State Park

Bald Eagle – Wild in Texas

Texas is the winter home to numerous bald eagles. Every year in the winter more sightings are generally noted. This year at least three have been sighted (and photographed) at our home refuge on the shores of Lake Texoma. These creatures are known to hunt for fish as well as mammals and on occasion waterfowl. For that reason, they are more likely to be found around bodies of water. If you have never seen one in the wild, it is a sight to behold. Their power, majesty and grace are unparalleled. It is no wonder whatsoever why this bird was chosen as our national symbol.

Bald Eagle at Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge, Texas
Bald Eagle at Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge, Texas

This photo was taken just after sunrise with a 150 to 500mm zoom while standing in 5 foot vegetation, handheld, from a distance of approximately 50 yards.

Bald Eagle Perched above Big Mineral Creek, Texas
Bald Eagle Perched above Big Mineral Creek, Texas

Bald Eagle using it's Talon as a toothpick
Bald Eagle using it’s Talon as a toothpick

These photos were taken in bright sunlight with a 150 to 500mm zoom peering through the forest from a distance of approximately 30 yards.

Bald Eagle perched in the tree tops early in the morning
Bald Eagle perched in the tree tops early in the morning

This photo was taken with a 150 to 500mm zoom in the early morning light about 30 minutes after sunrise across a farm field at a distance of approximately 75 yards.

All images were taken with a Nikon D5100 at Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge, Sherman, Texas on Febuary 17 2013.

Our Home Refuge (I am here at least weekly unless we are out of town): Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge and please visit: Friends of Hagerman

Some Resources for further study:

All About Birds/Cornell Lab of Ornithology

The Texas Breeding Bird Atlas

Day Trip – Mineola, Texas

We were looking for something to do, today. We looked through the events catalog for the lakes and prairies area of Texas (AKA North East Texas) and Mineola’s “Invitation to Musicians to play in the Gazebo” started today!! 🙂 So, in true form I map out this whole route …. out on US 80 … stop at Terrell, Wills Point, Edgewood, Grand Saline, on to Mineola. Saw a few things along the way …. Our plan was to arrive at 11 … stake out an area to listen to some bluegrass or country Jamming have lunch see the town and head back using US 69 South out of Mineola stop at the Mineola Wildlife Preserve and on to Lindale pick up TX 16 West over to Canton then 243 out of Canton into Kaufman then US 175 out of Kaufman back to Dallas.

Everything went Perfect!! EXCEPT NO MUSICIANS SHOWED UP!! lol!! We about half expected that, anyway. No harm. We spent the day traveling, and that is exactly what we wanted to do. We had lunch at the East Texas Burger Company right in Downtown Mineola and it Was fantastic!! Excellent Food, Excellent Service, Excellent atmosphere!! Make sure you try it!! AND the fried Pie was Fabulous!! (We had Peach and Apricot) East Texas Burger

We went to the Mineola Historical Museum in the old post office (It’s free, but, donations are accepted … and if you are like us you will be compelled to leave one) That place was amazing!! So many artifacts to see, it is well worth the time it takes to look.

Mineola Historical Museum
Mineola Historical Museum

We learned the there were two rail lines in Mineola in the old days. Texas and Pacific ran Dallas to Mineola and International and Great Northern ran Mineola to Tyler.

Texas and Pacific Caboose #13553 and the Historic Turn of the Century Beckham Hotel
Texas and Pacific Caboose #13553 and the Historic Turn of the Century Beckham Hotel

Mineola Rail Station and Museum
Mineola Rail Station and Museum

Texas Travelers Trip 1 – Route 66 and the Northern Panhandle Day 2


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We explored the ares of the panhandle north and east. North of Route 66 and east of Amarillo.

Starting with the map …. Zoom in on Amarillo and find US 60. Going up 60 we stopped in Panhandle, White Deer, Pampa. After Pampa on 60 we took TX 152 into Mobeetie and on into Wheeler. In Wheeler we took US 83 North into Canadian then on to Lipscomb by taking US 60 out of Canadian then TX 305 North. From Lipscomb to Perryton it got really cool …. FM 1920 out of Lipscombe changes into FM 3260 North a few blocks on TX 23 then County Road V changes into County Road U stay on county road U past Huge Boulders and Outcroppings, Unbelievably beautiful scenery and NO cars whatsoever … stop and photograph Wild Turkeys, a lake …. WOW then US 83 North into Perryton. Then Leaving Perryton on TX 15 into Spearman … Leaving Spearman on TX 207 in Stinnett and on to Borger. Whew … Finally Back to Amarillo … and Rest.

Panhandle Texas was a Major Surprise. You expect to see a courthouse, maybe a railroad station …. they have a full blown museum!! Donations Accepted!! So many things to see!! A Must See if you are ever in the Texas panhandle, spread out across 2 buildings and a huge block of ground is a fantastic museum about life in the panhandle. Rail Cars, horse drawn paddy wagon, dispatcher’s office, pioneer dugout home, lots of artifacts. More than possible to list.

Panhandle, TX Rail Station / City Hall
Panhandle, TX Rail Station / City Hall


Beautiful Rail Station for the Santa Fe Railroad … Currently City Hall

Panhandle Texas Museum
Panhandle Texas Museum


The surprise museum is in the town square directly across from the county courthouse. Shown is the smallest building. There are several static structures and 2 larger brick buildings on the grounds. Worth the time to stop, definitely.

Carson County Courthouse Panhandle TX
Carson County Courthouse Panhandle TX


Carson County Courthouse has a beautiful Carved Mosaic Right above the front door.

White Deer Texas
White Deer Texas

Well, this just about sums up White Deer, Texas. Main Street is closed and the white deer guards empty brick streets. The historical marker points out that the town got it’s name from a nearby creek which, according to indian legend, had white deer feeding there.

Gray County Courthouse Pampa TX
Gray County Courthouse Pampa TX


Pampa Texas has an old Downtown area with several very interesting buildings. Also Gray County Courthouse is in the town of Pampa.

Mobeetie Texas was another nice little surprise. Mobeetie (the town) is on the north side of TX 152. Historic old Mobeetie is on the south side of TX 152. We went to the town, first and almost went on our way …. then we went south. Mobeetie was once the county seat of wheeler county. The first county jail in the panhandle is there …. along with several other structures … an old one room schoolhouse, an old barber shop, an old doctor’s office, each with artifacts! US Cavalry Fort Elliot once occupied space near Mobeetie and several artifacts from there are housed at the museum including the old original flagpole. There is a larger old school building on the grounds that houses artifacts from several school districts in the area including yearbooks, photos, jackets, furniture, and other small school artifacts. All of the structures were open for touring the day we were there!

Fort Elliot Jail Cell
Fort Elliot Jail Cell

Original Wheeler County Jail
Original Wheeler County Jail


Wheeler, Texas. The most impressive veterans memorial view was in this town. The view of the memorial with the massive county courthouse and the cannon off to one side was definitely striking.

Wheeler Texas County Courthouse and Veterans Memorial
Wheeler Texas County Courthouse and Veterans Memorial

Canadian, Texas …. The county Seat of Hemphill County. Hands Down the most beautiful veterans memorial in the entire panhandle. The Courthouse was being restored while we were there, so it was covered with scaffolding. You can easily see what glory awaits when the scaffolding comes down. Canadian actually has a very old movie theater still in operation and a wagon bridge built at the turn of the 20th century that is in good enough shape for pedestrians to use …. we did. We walked almost the entire length of the bridge. It was awesome!!

Wagon Bridge Canadian Texas
Wagon Bridge Canadian Texas

Imagine driving into Canadian, Texas from Oklahoma within this structure …. this bridge carried automobiles and trucks into the 1960s!!

Interior View of the Canadian, Texas Wagon Bridge Built in 1916 By the Canton Bridge Company.
Interior View of the Canadian, Texas Wagon Bridge Built in 1916 By the Canton Bridge Company.

Canadian Texas Wagon Bridge

Veterans Memorial Canadian TX
Veterans Memorial Canadian TX


Hemphill County Courthouse
Hemphill County Courthouse

Lipscomb Taxas …. Well they had some old boarded up old west buildings and the county courthouse. Not much else.

The Old West in Lipscomb Texas
The Old West in Lipscomb Texas


Lipscomb County Courthouse
Lipscomb County Courthouse


But, the Drive between Lipscomb and Perryton made the disapponintment of little to see in Lipscomb worth while. What a beautiful drive!! Highly recommend Ochiltree County Road U (Except that you may not see another car or human for quite a while … not for the faint of heart).

Ochiltree County Road U Northern Panhandle
Ochiltree County Road U Northern Panhandle

Perryton Texas is a neat little town. The old Ellis Theater is still in operation. There’s another beautiful Art Deco Building almost directly across the street from the theater. The old Ochiltree County Courthouse has cows instead of gargoyles … how fitting is that?

Ochiltree County Courthouse - Perryton, TX
Ochiltree County Courthouse – Perryton, TX

Spearman Texas had another little nice surprise. First of all, spread out throughout the town are windmills. Each with a number like you’d check it off a list or something. Turns out, JB Buchanan Windmill Park has a whole bunch of windmills that actually operate in one spot and the mills you see in the town are actually part of the park’s collection. We spent several minutes roaming around the park, just looking. Spearman is the county seat of Hansford County Texas.

Hansford County Courthouse, Spearman Texas
Hansford County Courthouse, Spearman Texas


Windmill Park - Spearman Texas
Windmill Park – Spearman Texas

Stinnett Texas …. another neat little town, not much to see. Beautiful County Courthouse and Isaac McCormick Cottage built in 1899. That’s about it.

Hutchison County Courthouse - Stinnett Texas
Hutchison County Courthouse – Stinnett Texas

Isaac McCormick Cottage 1899 - Stinnett Texas
Isaac McCormick Cottage 1899 – Stinnett Texas

Borger Texas … It was getting dark when we rolled into Borger. We looked at a couple of old theater buildings and left to get back to the hotel room. It had been a very long day. Nice, but, long.

The Morley Theater - Borger Texas
The Morley Theater – Borger Texas

Texas Travelers Trip 1 – Route 66 and the Panhandle Day 1


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Our panhandle Journey Starts at an Old Route 66 Town called Shamrock.  I grew up as a military brat and I have vivid memories of trips we made on old US Highways.  Route 66 is particularly neat, because of the restoration and upkeep that has taken place over the years.  I personally never traveled on Route 66, but, many of the old structures I remember from my childhood on the road.

Feel free too zoom in on the map to Shamrock, Texas at the intersection of US83 and I40 to follow along.

From Shamrock we went into Oklahoma using I40, then we took the Business 40 exit just across the Oklahoma Border into Texola, on to Erick, on to Sayre, then we drove to Amarillo (the epicenter of the panhandle) using I40 to spend the night. Between Erick and Sayre, there are still patches of the old highway in a few places ….. The pictures for this leg of the journey are below along with some explation.

Art Deco Conoco, Shamrock TX
Art Deco Conoco, Shamrock TX

Art Deco Conoco at Dusk, Shamrock TX
Art Deco Conoco at Dusk, Shamrock TX

The Art Deco Conoco – This larger than life remnant of the earlier half of the 20th Century is a must see for anyone traveling on I40 through Texas.  Get out your camera and explore!!

Magnolia Gas Station - Shamrock TX (Restored)
Magnolia Gas Station – Shamrock TX (Restored)


This Fully Restored Magnolia Station sits in Downtown Shamrock …. Really a nice place to see!!

Old Gas Station - Texola OK
Old Gas Station – Texola OK

Wasn’t much at all in Texola …. Just this old Gas Station and a few old signs.

West Winds Motel - Erick, OK
West Winds Motel – Erick, OK

Erick was a little better than Texola …. kind of like going back in time. The hotel signs and buildings are clearly dilapidated, but, definitely worth a look.

Stovall Theater - Sayre, OK
Stovall Theater – Sayre, OK

Sayre OK …. I wish I had taken a few more photos, but, we were not really impressed with Oklahoma’s upkeep of Route 66. I only took a series of photos of the old Stovall Theater on Main Street. They seem to be trying to revive Main Street … let’s hope that happens!!

Original Segment of Route 66
Original Segment of Route 66

Without any Doubt the highlight of the trip into Oklahoma was finding an original ribbon of the old Route 66 between Sayre and Erick. There is absolutely no way 2 modern cars could drive on this ….

This wraps Up Day 1 of our northern Panhandle trip. From here, we went to Amarillo to check in and get some rest ….